Process of shoe manufacture



Oct. 5,192.6. y 1,602,368,-

C. B. SPALSBURY PROCESS OF SHOE MANUFACTURE Filed July 7, 1925 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 a :4

oct. 5, 1926. A 1,602,368

Y C. B. SPALSBURY a PROCESS OF SHOE MANUFACTURE- l Filed July '7, 1925 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 J7? vena a4 am fm C. B. SPALSBURY PROCESS OF SHOE MANUFACTURE Oct. 5, 19.26.

4 Sheets-Sheet 4 V Z577 ve @for 630,131', una

' able lasting tacks or Patented @ce 5, 1926.

CHARLES B.' .sransnnnm or se. Louis,- Mtssoenn .asistencia :To`-r scrutatori', STEPHENS L SHINK-LE SHOE CGMPAN'Y, 0F ST1 L SOURI.

Application filed July '2, 1925751 i Serial No. 41,992.

My present invention is Mani improved method or process otmanutacturing boots and shoes, and is directed primarily tothe .improvement in the art voi' lmanutacturing shoes employing ain insole, outsole, andl through and through stitching.V More par-4 ticularly4 my present invention is` directed to the production of an improved shoe, wherein all metallic fasteners', tacks, staples, clamps, adhesives, or the like .holding devices, are eliminated from alongthe o're-. part and shank of the resulting shoe structure;

Important features oi the pre3ent'-inven tion'include a novel outsole', preterablysuch as is shovvn, described and claimed in my co-pending application, Ser.v No'. 5117, liled; January 27, 1925. I also utilize novel last-v ing methods and devices inkv carrying. out my present process, these lasting devices, being' employed or'the operation of Working. the upper materials over tl the same when in lasted position during the application ofV the outsole and the rernovf other temporary hold` ing devices. A preferred lasting method' and devices therefor are substantially show-n in my prior copending application., Ser. No. April 5th, 1923, andy Ser.' No.

l I filed Sept. 13,1923, and Ser. No. 710,556, filed May Q, 1924. y

` A further important and novel feature in carrying out my present process, consists Vin the step of holding the lasted upper and insoleby means of lasting tacks or the like, applied 'through the outsole, and turthermore applied trom-the outer surface or bot tom. side of the outsole, being partially driven in, in order to be removable from the shoe after the outsole upper, and insole have been permanently united by through and through or McKay stitching. novel method of thus applying removable Alasting tacks or other' holding devices from the outer side oi the outsole,particularly in Melia '1 shoe construction, is believed to be a distinct novelty in this art, and l claim the same vherein broadly. 4 g

A 'further important feature oi my pres= ent method consists in the. fact of enabling the lasting tacks or holding VVdevices to be driven While the upper materials and insole are held firmly in the ii'nal position to which they are stretched bythe lasting operation,

PIR- GEES 0F'. SHOE MANUFAGTRE.

ie insole and holding @"US, MISSGXJRT, A-GORPORATON F MTS- alsoapplyinglasting tacks or other holding devices While the lasting means are still in.

their extremelasted position, and' While the upper materials and? insole are heldy to# vices. Thenl as the upper materials, leather, lining, etc., are held'dravvn tightly to the gether under the tension of the lasting (ile--l and' While the sameare held under the ten- 5 sole, along thesioles ofv the iorepart. There" ort'ion ofthe shoe is simafter, thesha'nkpv ilarly lasted, andvv-l'ri'le'l this shank Vportion is also' held under the tensionfof the lasting devices, 'the lastingtac'ks maybe driven 4through the outsole, upper materials and iplsole along each side` ofthe shankl of the s oe.

vices which are thus driven,` are readfilly re'- movable 'from outside'goi ythe outsole, and rel" s time holding the upper under au lastingewks, Staples, Op iieiaiagae.

sition until the last is pulled or Withdrawn and the through and' through or McKay stitching, applied, which" permanently unites the. upper and insole to the outsole` Thereupon the lasting tacksy are Witlidraivn,either before the shoe is ref-lasted', or afterward.

This Jfeature is also a distinct novelty and T Wish to claim-thel same hereinbroad'ly.v

'A further step inthe preferredv form of carryingout my plying otalelfrei'novable `lastingl tacks along each side of the orepart, as well as the shankl portion, in ay position disalined process consists in the apalong.

from the `line'ofit stitching, preterablythese "acks are-setinsideA or'towardfthe center of the sole from the line of stitching intended` to be applied, thu-s permitting-the stitching to `be run closer to the edge 'than if any tacks Were outside or near the marginal edge of the outsole and insole.' y

For the purpose of lasting `boots 'and shoes tension, as above explained.

by my present method, I prefer to employ side lasting plates or Wipers, and With provision for yielding engagement upon the upper materials, said plates to be slotted or recessed to permit the driving of lasting tacks through the slotted or recessed portions While the lasting devices hold the upper under This feature I have vshown and described in certain of my prior copending applications, above identified, and the same is claimed in said applications.

The complete process as at present employed by me in preferred form Will noW be described.

First: The upper materials of usual form, style, size and pattern are assembled upon a last, together With an insole, either by hand or by an assembling machine. Thereupon the assembled upper and insole are preferably subjected to the usual pulling over operation, and a plurality of stay tacks are applied, which are subsequently removed. Thereafter I may last the heel seat, and if desired the extreme toe portion, driving in permanently clinched lasting tacks. Preferably I may last the toe portion and hold the same by suitable adhesive until the outsole is applied, or I may utilize the method and toe lasting devices shoivn in my said prior application Ser. No. 510,555.

lith the shoe, upper and insole thus prepared, my novel steps are utilized: The shoe on its last is placed in my novel type of side lasting machine; the lasting operation last- :ing the fore part is performed by the marary lasting tacks are applied.

nipulation of the slotted Wipers under tension stretching the upper material tightly about the last and holding the same then under tension until the outsole and tempo- Before applying the outsole a filler piece and shank fastener may be fitted if desired. Thereupon the outsole is applied and the removable lasting` tacks are driven from the out-A side or bottom of the outsole and through the slots in the Wipers as above explained. Then the lasting Wipers are released and Withdrawn, and the operator forces the outsole down snugly against the lasted upper on the insole along the margin to close the outsole tightly against the insole and upper materials the slight space caused by the Width and thickness of the lasting Wipers. This can be effected in any desired manner and preferably is quickly and easily done by the operator as he inspects the shoe, applyingv pressure to the margin of the outsole along the shank of the lasting tacks by means of a tack lifter or other device. v

The next step in my process consists in lasting the shank portion in a similar manner and by a substantially similar machine with lasting Wipers of'suitable contour for the shank. Prior to this shank lasting, or

subsequent thereto, a metallic or other shank stiffener can be applied, if it has not been previously fitted to the shoe. The shank portion of the outsole is then secured to the upper and insole by driving removable last-- ing tacks therethrough and in a position dis-4 alined from the line of stitching, in substantially the same manner as that practiced in lasting the forepart. The shank lasting Wipers are then Withdrawn, and the marginal edge of the outsole snugly pressed against the insole to take up the space of the shank lasting Wipers.

rIhe shoe is now completely lasted and furthermore has the outsole already secured to the insole and upper by the removable lasting tacks holding the entire shoe structure together with amplek strength to permit the Withdrawal of the last and the application of through and through stitching. The last is then Withdrawn with the lasting tac is still in the shoe and projecting from the outer surface of the outsole, and these tacks being disalined from the line of stitching, Which stitching is preferably set in a groove in the outsole, the through and through or so-called McKay stitching is applied Without displacing` or removing the tacks. After the stitching is thus applied, the shoe is re-lasted, and thereupon I preferably remove the lasting tacks from around the forepart and the shank, thus leaving the forepart and shank portion of my improved shoe entirely free of tacks, clamps, adhesives, or any other auxiliary fastening left permanently Within those portions of the shoe structure, as has been customary and necessary in prior methods of manufacture, employing through kand through stitching.

While I prefer to utilize the slotted type of lasting Wipers, so that the temporary lasting tacks can be driven therethrough, it is equally feasible to drive the lasting tacks beyond the edge of the Wipers, or to slightly Withdraw the Wipers j ust before tacking,but still holding the upper under tension. These or substantially equivalent alternatives or modifications are intended to be included in certain of the broader claims herein.

Referring to the drawings, illustrating the preferred method of carrying out my present invention,

Fig, l is an approximate perspective View of an assembled upper and insole on a last;

Fig. 2 is a corresponding perspective view illustrating the pulling over and vtemporarily securing of the toe portion of the upper and insole;

Fig. 3 is a plan View illustrating my step of lasting the forepart;

Fig. 4 being a corresponding cross sectional vieW on the line 4--4 of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a similar cross sectional View to that shown in Fig. 4, but with the outsole applied and' the' lasting tacks or equivalentl temporaryr holding devices securing the lasted. upper in position;

Fig. 6 is a corresponding crossl sectional view to Figs. Ll and 5 showing the withdrawing. of the lasting wipers and thev snugging down7 Vof the outsole along the shanks ofthe temporary lasting tacks, to force the outsole, lasted upper and insole firmly in union and to displace they spaces left by withdrawing' the lasting wipers;

Fig. '7 is a perspective showing the fore part lasted, the shank andl heel portion ot the outsole turned upwardly, and the shank lasting wipers p'artlyin position;

Fig. 8 is a plan view of the shank lasting Ster;

Fig.v 9 being a cross-sectional view on the line 9-9 of Fig. S;

Fig.I 10 is a: similar cross-sectional view to that shown inFig. 8, with the outsole applied, the lasting. tacks partially ldriven in, with the lasting wiper on `one side being shown in position, Vand on the other side withdrawn and the outside snugged down,

11 is' a cross-sectional' view through the forepart, showing the shoe withdrawn from the last and the through and through stitching applied;

Fig. 12 is acorresponding cross-sectional view illustrating the lasting tacks withdrawn and the sole attaching process completed.

Referring to the drawings, 1 indicates a last, whichA mayy bev of any suitable form, style', size or standar-d make, and either hinge, block or other type of last, it being a feature of lmy invention that no special last is required.4 Preferably a usual metallic clinching plate 2 is fitted to the last. i

3 indicates shoe upper materials, usually comprising the usual leather'outer portion and such inner lining as is desired, including also a boX toe and counter where required. Vhile in the drawings I showv a type of low shoe or oxford, my invention is not of course so limited, but will apply to anytype, style yor form of shoe', which is or can be made by this process. 4 indicates the usual type of insole used in Meliayshoe manufacture, viz, an Vinsole without sewing ri-bs,withou't gemming, without channel lips, or other operationsl performed thereon; An important feature ot my present process is that I utilize a` very inexpensive and preferably thin innersole, which indeed may be of leather, or compositioinsuch as leatherboard or the like, requiring sutilcient strength to retain, temporarily, the rcmovable ylasting tacks, andto hold the peiI` manent through and through stitching. Therefore I can utilize thin and inexpensive ,stock for the insole of my improved shoe',

which could not otherwise be employed.k

However, a typical? grade ot so-cal-l`e'd" Kay insole is preferable in carrying. out tllis process. yT he upper 3 and insole l bei-ng assembled on a last, the insole `being tempo'- rarily heldbythe usualv toe and heel tacks' 5 and 6, andthe upper by one or more heelV tacks 7 and 8, is iirst subjected to the'pnlllf ing over operation at the toe, andthe he'elyseat nailing operation at the heel. Fig.- Q1'V illustrates my process and-the shoe; construe'- 'tion at this stage, these operations rbeing usual and well known and any suitablema chines can be'einployed for thefsame, preferablyA the well known type of` pullingeover machine,and any heel ,seat makin-g mach-ine.

VVliile I prefer to pull over the toe; portion and secure same by usual removable lastingscf tacks 9, 10 and 11,1 may vemploy a wire'lasting, holding vor other device-if desired. filso", while the usual heel seat nailing i-s indio/ated with the tacks 1() driven in and clinched against the platefQ', on the last 1,1 it will be apprcciatedthat l may employ a sewed"'heel"y seat'if desired', but the usual methods- 'for the toe and heel operations are preferably employed in carryingout my vpresent'proc#` GSS.

a lasting machine, .preferably of the type shown in my copending application Ser'.- No".

Thereupon the assembled shoe upper yand insole, thus parti-ally lasted, is fitted-'into the forepart of the shoe, asshownin-Fig. 3f, Y

by means of side wipers indicated general-- ly` at 15 and 16,-said wipers having a-plu`- rality of tack receiving recesses 17, 1i? andl 18', 1.8. The marginal portion of thel upper' aro-und the forepart, `i-i'idica-t'ed at 20, is th-us worked', wiped, or lasted o'ver'theedge ofthe insole, until `the lasting action is' completedy andthe upper materials, are stretched l iitted snugly about the wood of the last and onto the insole. i/Vhile the lasting wipers 16 are thus and still held inlasting engage- ;ment, the outsole 25 is applied to the fore# loir bel fitted `in if desired, this being ot'any suitable substance, such as felt, ground cork. or other desired filling. ible to -make my presentl shoe Without the lfilling 28', as the relatively' slight thickness of the margin 20' of the upper scarcely re- 4quires a filler, although a iill'eris desirable to aid in cenienting and uniting the' insole and outsole. No substantial filling,y however, is needed. as no sewing rib or the like lt is entirely teasf ent Well known shoe factory methods, a

strong, flexible, and comfortable shoe have `ing 'through and throughfastenings.

ation was thought to be necessary in order` to hold the lasted upper and insole together While last was Withdrawn and the through and through stitching applied. Besides my process permits the outsole to be perma nently att-ached,` and to thus remain, and in fact to permit relasting of the sewed shoe before the lasting tacks are Withdrawn. The very important feature of applying through and through fastenings, which may be typical MCE outsole, upper and insole, While removable lasting devices or tacks are still in position, and with the last removed, is a fundamental feature. lllhile I prefer to remove all lasting tacks along forepart and shank, and may as above explained, remove those lasting tacks at the toe, if desired, I prefer to have the toe portion secured either by several Which can be left therein, or by a suitable adhesive, cement or the like, the function of such adhesive being simply to retain this portion of the lasted upper and insole together, While the through and through stitching is applied. As there is but slight distorting strain at the toe While the last is removed, and as the tacks throughout the rest of the forepart, as Well as the shank, retain the lasted shoe together, I find that adhesive is perfectly feasible to thus hold the toe portion, until the through and through stitching` is applied. f

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new is:

l. The improved method of making boots and shoes, which includes as a step the applying from the outside of the outsole of removable devices to hold the lasted upper, inner, and outsole together, thereafter removing the last, applying through `and through fastenings, and thereupon withdrawing the removable devices.-

2. The improved method of making shoes employing permanent through and through fatsenings, Which consists in assembling upper materialsand an insole on a last, lasting the upper, holding the lasted upper While an outsole -is positioned, then applying holding devices through the outsole, upper and insole, thereupon removing the last, applying through and through fastenings, then removing the holding devices, and finishing the shoe in any desired manner.

3. The improved method of making shoes employing permanent through and through fastenings, com rising the following steps of assembling t e upper materials and in1 ay shoe stitching, uniting the sole-on a last, :then lasting the heel seat, thence lasting ltherforepart of the upper by means .of lasting Wipers, holding said. materials under tension of the Wipers, then apply-ing an outsole, next .applying removable lasting tacksthrough the outsole, upper, and insole, :thereupon removing the wipers, pulling the last, applying through and through fastenin'gs, and thereafter removing the lasti-n'g tacks. y f f l' il. The improved method of making shoes employingpermanent through and through fastening, comprising the 4following steps of assembling the upper material and insole on a last, then lasting the toe and heel seat, thence lasting the forepart of the upper by means of lasting Wipers, holding said upper under tension, then applying an outsole, neXt applying removable holding tacks through the outsole, upper and insole, thereupon removing the Wipers, pulling the last, applying through and through fastenings, and thereafter removing the holding tacks.

5. The improved method of making shoes employing permanent through andthrough. fastenings, comprising the' steps of assembling the upper materialsy andv insole on av last, then lasting the heel seat, thence lasting the forepart ofthe upper `by means of lastingl wipers,holding said upper under tension, thenapplying an outsole, neXt applying' removable lastingvtacks through 1the outsole, upper and insole, thereupon remov- Aing the Wipers, applyingpressure tobring into contact the outsole and the upper Awhen the Wipers are Withdrawn, pulling the last,

applying through and through fastenings,

vand thereafter removing `the lasting tacks. l

6. The improved method of making shoes With thellasting tacks removed from the forepart and shank, which consists in assembling upper materials and an insole on a last, lasting the upper by4 movable Wipers, holding said upper under tension While an outsole is applied, setting lasting tacks through outsole, upper and insole, then removing the last, applying through and throughfastenings, and then withdrawing the lasting tacks. y

7. rlhe improved method of making boots vand shoes, Which includes as a -step the process of lasting the upper and an insole on a predetermined portion of the last, vapplying the outsole to said lastedv portion only, then lastingthe adjacent portion,then applying the outsole to said adjacent portion, uniting the outsole, lasted upper and insole by temporary holdingdevices, removing the last and applying permanent through and through fastenings, and re`. moving the holding devices.

8. The improved method of making boots and shoes, Which includes as a step'the process of lasting the upper and insole on theforepart, applying .the outsole to said 6 lLeoses forepart only, then lasting the shank, theu applying the outsole to said shank, temporarily uniting the outsole, lasted upper and insole, removing the last and applying permanent through and through fasteriings.

9. ',lhe improved process of nmnufecturing boots and shoes, employing permanent through and through stitching, which com-.

prises the step oiE holding the lasted upper and insole under tension by temporary holding devices, While su outsole is applied, then driving temporary lasting tacks to unite the outsole, lasted upper and insole, then removing the holding devices aud thereupon alpplyihg pressure, to bring into Contact the outsole and lasted upper at the spaces left by removing the said holding devices, thereupon removing the last, applying permanent through and through stitching, and then withdrawing said lasting tacks.

le testimony whereof, I have signed my neme to this specification.

CHARLES B. SPALSBURY. 

